Seed Germinating Techniques

We get a lot of questions in regards to germinating seeds on our toll-free help line and via email so here are some basic tips for germinating seeds.  Seeds and cuttings need the same TLC and conditions for optimal growth.

Germination of seeds requires water, air and warm temperatures .

The seeds will sprout in darkness in a wide range of temperatures. On average when properly done seeds will germinate in 3-7 days with temps between 70-90F.

Higher temps can affect germination rates negatively.  Upon germination the outer shell of seed opens by splitting and little white sprouts emerge.  This is the tap-root.  The leaves will emerge from the shell as they reach upward towards the light.

Many people have great difficulty with germination but if you follow some basic techniques you will master it in no time.

As with cuttings you just have to have the conditions optimal and your results will show.

Star by soaking seeds in water overnight, ensuring they are wet so that growth is kick started.  Don’t soak longer then 24 hrs as you do not want them to drown and rot.  They will need oxygen.  Once you have soaked your ready to place in moist paper towels which will allow sprouting.  You can also plant directly into rockwool cube                        

or jiffy pellet                            Image

or and rooting plug type medium .                                 Image

As well as soil, soiless mix, coco or any other substrate you are planning on using.

Place seeds in the towel or medium in a humidity dome and tray .

Image http://bit.ly/NEcweY

Imagehttp://bit.ly/OCPncQ

But make sure they are in a warm (70-90F) but dark spot.

Make sure you check daily to make sure the cloth or medium stays wet.  There are several different products you can add to the water that you soak the towel or medium with to help facilitate faster root growth such as:

General Hydroponics Rapid start    http://bit.ly/RZMw3n Image

General Organics  Bio root  http://bit.ly/PpC5VDImage

Canna Start     http://bit.ly/QL8pz9Image

Check the cloth daily to ensure it is moist, yet not soaking in water.  The seeds should germinate
within a few days.  Once the seeds have sprouted and the white sprout is visible be very careful and take them out of the towel and plant them.  Do not allow the root hair to be exposed to intense light or air.  Plant the seed at least ¼” – 1/2” in the medium with the sprout tip pointing downward.  Or place the sprout in the rockwool cube or medium of your choice.  These should be ready for transplant in about 2 weeks once a good root base is established and root hairs are coming out the sides and bottoms of the cubes.

Using a humidity dome will help ensure the humidity and temperature stays optimal .

The humidity domes have vents that open on top so leave them open so that the humidity does not become too high and the seedlings rot.

You can also use a seedling heat mat and thermostat to control the temperature of the root zone better.

Once they are root bound they are ready to be placed under the HID lights.

Use a metal Halide for the vegetative growth stage.

400 watts Metal Halides are excellent for small vegetative grow rooms.

Blackstar Vegetative LED ‘s are also excellent to use for the vegetative growth stage.

We hope this bit of info is helpful for your next seed sprouting adventure.

Call anytime if you have any questions: 1-877-226-4769 or email grow@canadianwholesalehydroponics.com        We are always available to help.

Taking Cuttings or ” Clones “

Taking cuttings or “clones” is a very important part of indoor gardening.  It is one of the things we get asked the most about and can at times be tricky as there are several important steps to take to ensure your cuttings root successfully.

When taking cuttings, cleanliness and sterilized equipment the most important thing.  We recommend always using a new blade and new 10x 20 trays.  Old blades can be full of germs and often times tear the plant instead of providing a nice clean cut.

If using rock wool cubes have them prepared by presoaking them in a ph balanced water of 7 for a few hours at least.  Also add General Hydroponic’s Rapid start into the soak for your cubes.

Starter plug tray is ready to go. Jiffy pellets also need to be soaked but only an hour or so and you don’t have to worry about balancing th ph

Always choose a branch that looks healthy and has a good nodes coming out where new branches meet the stock.  Take the cutting about 4-6 inches, pest free, with lush growth.  The veins of the leaves should look white and transparent if held up to a light.  This will tell you that they are absorbing food properly and that you have a good healthy leaf to catch your sun.  These kinds of cuttings will give you the highest success rate.

When choosing a branch to cut for your cuttings choose one that has several nodes coming out as this will give you the nicest, bushiest plant when it roots and starts to grow.

Supplies that you will need for your cuttings will be :

-10 x 20 grow tray  : http://bit.ly/OCPncQ    

-Humidity dome :  http://bit.ly/NEcweY           

-Razor blade  

-Stim root # 1 rooting powder  :   http://bit.ly/LtEXRo  

-Gel rooting hormone. We recommend  :

Clonex  :    http://bit.ly/Muhscc   

or rootech rooting gel :   http://bit.ly/SDQmyo  

-rockwool cubes or starter plugs:

Rockwool cubes : http://bit.ly/LtIbnU  

Jiffy pellets:   http://bit.ly/HdeOyf   

Rapid rooter starter plugs:    http://bit.ly/GN7okY 

glass of distilled water at room temperature

Pie plate with distilled water at room temperature

Once you are ready to start taking your cuttings choose your branch and make your cut as close to the main stem as possible. The stem pieces left behind can cause infections and rot on your mother plant.

Once you have your cutting place it in the glass of distilled room temperature water.  The reason for this is that once you make a cut in the plant the plant’s first response is to suck air up through the cut.  This can cause the cell walls to dry up limiting the cuttings chance at success.   Do all your cuttings that you will be taking like this and place them in the water.   Once this is done you can make all your final cuts and apply your rooting hormone gel

For the final cut you need to make a cut at a 45 degree angle through the stem.  This opens up more surface area for the root base to develop from.

Start by submerging the branch in the pie plate with water, then make the angled cut with the tem under the water.  Make the cut between the 2 lowest nodes as this is where there are the highest levels of growth hormones .  This will accelerate the root growth process.

Remove the cutting from the water and dip it directly into the rooting hormone gel for at least a minute, then dip into the powder and then put the cutting into your cube or starter plug.  Place this under the dome.

Check on your cuttings every few days , you can apply a light mist of water every day after about the first 5-7 days.  Roots can take anywhere from 7 – 14 days depending on what type of variety it is.  You can also water the cubes if they get a little dry using the general hydronics rapid start, the same as used in the presoak of your rockwool cubes .The temperature should be around 74-80F.  If cool temperatures are a problem the seddling heat mat with thermostat is ideal to control the temperatures  .

Once you have good thick white roots coming out the cube the cutting is ready for transplant into the growing medium of your choice.  Whether it goes into soil or hydroponics this method will work .

Bio Canna Bio Rhizotnic is now in stock.

We have been PROUDLY selling Canna products for over 10 years and are extremely excited to be bringing you another TOP quality product from the BIO Canna line up.  Canna isn’t like most companies in the industry , they only put out top quality products after years of research unlike their competitors.   They were also doing plant specific research long before the others who claim to be the first.

Canna and BioCanna have always been an industry leader and have always put out nothing but the best so its no surprise that BioRhizotonic is just another amazing product by an amazing company.

The BioCanna BioRhizotonic is an organic OMRI certified , root stimulator. BioRhizotonic contains nutrients derived from marine algae and is used to re-vitalize and energize a weak or new root system.  BioRhizotonic stimulates further root developement of plants that already have roots or initial roots.

BioRhizotonic contains a range of vitamins,including vitamins b-1 and b-2 , which stimulates the developement of root hairs,root tips,and increases the plants resistance to disease.  A powerful root system ensures the plant can absorb maximum nutrients for faster growth.  BioRhizotonic has a noticeable vitalizing effect on plants . Thanks to BioRhizotonic the plants extend their roots throught the growing medium much more rapidly.  This is why BioRhizotonic is among other things, an ideal remedy for stressed plants such as cuttings, transplants, seedlings etc.  BioRhizotonic restores and strengthens plants that are unhealthy.

BioRhizotonic is suitable for any growing medium.  Bio Rhizotonic can also be used as a foliar spray.  This allows the plant to directly absorb the beneficial components of BioRhizotonic through the leaves.  Use BioRhizotonic up to 6 times a day as a foliar spray when your plants roots are not developed or if they have suffered stress or shock.  Once the plant has a strong, developed root system you can increase the dosage of BioRhizotonic.

Your plants will be certain to develop beautiful, strong roots with BioRhizotonic.  Good reults start with a healthy plant with a strong and well developed root system.

Bio Canna BioRhizotonic is now available and ready to be shipped to your door so your plants can start to reapthe benefits this great product has to offer. Check it out under the Canna product line up on our site.

 

 

Basic Hydroponics glossary

Here we have a compiled small hydroponics glossary of common words used the indoor gardening/ hydroponic community.  We hope you do find it useful.

 

A-

Acid– any substance with a pH below 7.0 (neutral).

Acidic– of an acid or its properties; a decrease of pH during a chemical process.

Aeration– the addition of air into a media or solution.

Aerobic– a biological process or reaction that requires oxygen.

Alkaline– of a base or its properties; an increase in pH during a chemical process.

Anaerobic– a biological process or reaction that occurs in the absence of oxygen.

Apex stem– the growing point at the top of the main stem. Also called the plumule.

Aril– the outer coating of a seed.

Asexual– reproduction without the contribution of genetic material form another parent.

Antiseptic– a chemical substance that destroys all microorganisms.

Antibiotic– a chemical substance, usually produced by a microorganism, that when present in small quantities, destroys or inhibits the growth of a harmful bacteria.

Axial stem– any growing point that originates from the union of the main stem and petiole (leaf stem). Also called a lateral stem.

B-

Bacteria– an extremely small and simple organism that is capable of asexual reproduction.

Base– any substance with a pH above 7.0 (neutral).

Biological– the process of a living organism.

Basic– of a base or its properties; an increase in pH during a chemical process.

Botany– the area of biology that specifically studies plants.

BTU– British Thermal Unit, a unit of measurement of the required energy to raise the temperature of 1 pound of water by 1 degree Fahrenheit.

C-

Carbohydrate– any of a group of organic compounds that include sugars, starches, and cellulose that are made up of carbon, oxygen and hydrogen.

Catalyst– any chemical or agent that affects a process or reaction without being altered itself.

Cellulose– a natural polymer of glucose that forms the structural material of a plant’s cell wall.

Chelate– a chemical that temporarily bonds to another compound that can be released to a biological process whereas the compound may not normally be available, usually heavy metal trace elements such as iron or zinc.

Chloroplast– the organelle inside a plant cell that contains chlorophyll and is responsible for photosynthesis and some protein production.

Chlorophyll– the green pigments in plants that act as photoreceptors necessary for photosynthesis.

Chlorosis– the yellowing of a plant part as the result of a harmful growing condition.

Clone– a plant produced by asexual reproduction.

Compound– a substance made up of atoms of different atomic numbers such as Calcium nitrate (CaNO3) and water (H2O)

Compost– the result of controlled biological decomposition of organic material.

Conductivity– the ability of a solution to carry an electrical current via the dissolved elements and compounds in solution.

Conductivity meter– an electronic meter designed to measure the ability of a solution to carry an electrical current in relation to the concentration of dissolved elements and compounds in the solution.

Cultivar– a cultivated species of plant for which there is no known wild ancestor.

Cupping– the inward curling of the leaf margins either up or down in response to a dramatic change in the growing conditions.

Cutting– a portion of the plant that has been removed for the purpose of asexual reproduction.

D-

Damper– ( commonly referred to a backdraft dampner) a device used for regulating airflow.

E-

EC– a unit of measure for the amount of electrical current a solution can carry usual expressed in micro or milliSiemens per sq. centimeter (uS/cm2, mS/cm2)

Effluent– the waste material produced from a biological process.

Element– a substance made up of atoms that have the same atomic number such as oxygen (O2) and nitrogen gas (N2).

Emulsion– a stable suspension of one liquid into another with which will not mix.

Enzyme– a group of catalytic proteins that are produced by living organisms that have an effect on a chemical or biological process of life without being altered themselves.

F-

Fertilizer– a product that is applied to the growing media that provides the complete level of nutrition for that specific plant in the applied growing conditions.

Foliar– pertaining to the leaves.

Footcandle– a unit of measure for light intensity also expressed as 1 lumen.

Fungicide– any substance that prevents or destroys the growth of fungi.

Fungus– a nucleated, usually filamentous, spore bearing organism devoid of chlorophyll.

G-

Germinate– the initiation and development of a plant from seed.

Glucose– C6H12O6 the simplest form of a group of compounds called sugars. Glucose is the primary energy source for nearly ALL cellular functions. The glucose molecule can also be arranged in the form of lactose and fructose. These 3 compounds are also the building blocks for ALL carbohydrates.

Growth regulator– any substance that controls the speed or type of growth of all stages of a plant.

H-

Herbicide– any substance that prevents the growth of or kills plants.

Hormone– a compound produced by an organism to be transported to another part of the organism to influence a specific physiological process.

Host– the organism on or in which a parasite lives or the dominant member of a symbiotic relationship.

Humidistat– an instrument that measures and controls equipment to effect humidity.

Humidity– the presence of water vapor in the air.

Hygrometer– a device that measures the quantity of water vapor in the air expressed as a percentage of the maximum amount that the air can hold (% relative humidity or RH)

Hydroponics– the cultivation of plants in an inert and sterile growing media where nutrition is provided entirely by a nutrient solution applied to the root zone.

Hyphae– filaments composed of the mycelium of fungi.

I-

Inert– having no activity, reactivity or effect.

Inorganic– matter that is not derived from any biological process or activity.

Insecticide– any substance that prevents or kills insects.

Interveinal– the area of leaf tissue between the vascular bundles (veins).

Ion– any electron, positron, element or compound which has an electrical charge.

L-

Long-day plants– most commonly annuals such as tomatoes and peppers, plants that complete its entire life cycle when the day-length is longer than the night-length. Maintaining this photoperiod is crucial to the growth and development of the plant.

M-

Macronutrients– Nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium, calcium, sulphur and magnesium. The elements taken in by plants which are used in large quantity and tend to become fixed in internal plant structures.

Media– the material in which plants grow.

Meristem– any of the growing tips of a plant.

Metabolism– the combination of all physical, biological and chemical processes by which an organism grows.

Mineral– a naturally occurring inorganic substance with a characteristic chemical composition.

Micro-nutrients– also called trace elements, the elements used in very small amounts by plants and are used for certain biological processes. They are often mobile within the plant and large accumulations can be toxic. Zinc, iron, chlorine, boron and molybdenum are a few.

Miticide– any product that prevents or kills mites.

Mottling– irregular discolorations on a leaf.

N-

Necrosis– the death of living tissue.

Nutrient solution– an aqueous solution of fertilizer and supplements to be supplied to the root zone of plants

P-

Parasite– an organism that obtains its food and/or shelter at the expense of another organism.

Pathogen– a disease or harm producing agent.

Petiole– the stem that supports the leaf of a plant.

pH– a term used to describe the hydrogen ion activity in a solution or system. The concentration of hydrogen ions determines how other elements interact and their availability to plants roots. Normal range is from 0 to 14 with pH7 being neutral. pH levels below 7 are acidic and pH levels above 7 are alkaline or basic.

Phloem– highly structured, food carrying vascular tissue in plants.

Photoperiod– period of time including the day- and night- length.

Photoperiodism– the physiological response of plants to the day-length, night-length or combination of both.

Photosynthesis– the process occurring in plant where light energy is used to synthesize glucose from Carbon dioxide in the air and water from the roots. This is done by t chlorophyll within the chloroplasts in the cells of plants.

Pistil– female part of the flower that captures pollen.

Pollen– genetic material created by male flowers.

Pollenation– transfer of pollen from the stamen to the pistol often done by external mechanical means (insects, wind).

PPM– Parts per Million, a unit of measure for the amount dissolved solids in an aqueous solution.

PSI.– pounds per square inch, a unit of measure for pressure.

R-

Reflectance– the ratio of the amount of incident energy on a surface to the amount of energy reflected from the surface.

S-

Salts– ionic compounds which contain a metallic element. Table salt is Sodium chloride.

Scarify– to break the outer coating of a seed in order to promote germination.

Semi-permeable– a membrane that allows the passage of certain solvents and compounds but not others.

Stoma– openings on the underside of leaves that a plant can open and close to regulate transpiration and air exchange. Plural- stomata

Short-day plants– most commonly tropical annuals such as poinsettias and orchids, plants that produce flowers and fruit seasonally when the day- length is equal to or shorter than the night-length. Maintaining this photoperiod is critical in ensuring prolific flowering.

Supplement– a product used to complete a nutrient solution, supply a deficiency, or provide components for a desired effect on plants.

Synergism– the joint action of agents, such as supplements, that when used together increase each other’s effectiveness.

Systemic– the ability of a substance to be absorbed by and transported through a plant.

T-

Transpiration– the passage of water through a plant from the roots, through the vascular system to the atmosphere.

Turgor pressure– the pressure developed by the fluid content of a plant cell. This pressure swells the cell and keeps the plant erect and allows the orientation of leaves.

V-

Virus– a group of infectious agents that require a living cell as a resource for existence and reproduction.

W-

Wetting agent– a compound that reduces the water repellency of a surface.

X-

Xylem– the primary water conducting tissue and the major supporting tissue of higher plants.

PH , Why is it so important ?

PH … Why is it so important?

Correct pH control is a crucial but often overlooked aspect when growing in hydroponics or soil less mediums like Sunshine mix, Hydroton, Rockwool or any other hydroponic medium. The pH of your solution determines how much of the mineral elements you supply your plant is accessible and ready for uptake by the plant.

 

SO WHAT IS pH?

The term pH, refers to a scale from 1 t o 14 that measures the acidity or alkalinity of a solution.  1 is extremely acid and 14 is extremely alkaline with 7 being neutral. This scale is what’s known as a logarithmic scale meaning that for every one point increase or decrease in pH reflects a 10 fold change in acidity or alkalinity. For example a pH 6 is 10 times more acidic than a pH 7 and a pH of 5 is whopping 1,000 more acidic than ph 7!

You can see then how quickly things can change or get out of control in a hydroponic solution.

Plant nutrients are available across a range of pH with the optimal pH being 5.5 for Hydroponics and Coco Coir and a slightly higher pH of 6.3 for soil based systems. These 2 pH values represent the values that allow the plant to take up the maximal amount of all mineral elements. Go too far above or below and certain elements begin to become unavailable to the plant.

Get this simple control wrong and your plants will suffer suboptimal nutrition at best and at worst your plants will suffer from multiple nutritional deficiencies or even die in extreme cases. 

 

SO HOW DO I CONTROL THE pH?

The best way to control pH is via the use of a common acid ( pH down ) and alkali  ( pH up ). The best ones to use, and ones which are available at all good hydroponic or gardening stores is Phosphoric Acid for pH down and Potassium Hydroxide for pH up. These are chosen because they do not add harmful elements to your nutrient solution. Phosphoric acid adds Phosphorus and Potassium Hydroxide adds Potassium both essential plant nutrients.

 

WHAT’S THE IDEAL WAY TO CONTROL pH AND IS TIMING IMPORTANT?

Once people realise how important pH is to their crops success, their natural tendency is to over manage the pH of the solution. In our desire to keep the pH at the most optimal value many gardeners adjust their pH when it moves even the smallest amount from the ideal value. However, in doing so many gardeners actually sabotage their own results – in the most unlikely way.  When gardeners over control their pH they inadvertently add large amounts of either phosphorus or potassium. This can cause the nutrient solution to become unbalanced and elements to begin to be locked out as the nutrients interact with each other in undesirable ways as the concentrations of particular elements become too high. This is most often seen with the use of too much pH down which can cause Phosphorus induced zinc deficiency. The common symptom of this deficiency is small or underdeveloped flower s – not what we want to experience!

As the mineral elements in a nutrient solution are quickly used by the plant, it is a good idea to replace your nutrient solution at least once every 2 weeks ( in hydro )  or to flush at least 2 times a week ( in soil ). The other important time to replace your nutrient solution is if it raises or lowers by a full point or more within 24 to 48 hours. This either indicates the plant is under stress, or more commonly the plant is rapidly depleting the nutrient solution of either nitrogen ( when the pH goes up ) or Phosphorus ( when the pH goes down ).

 

HOW DO I MEASURE pH AND WHAT IS THE BEST WAY?

pH can be measured using ph test strips ( http://bit.ly/HHl9tb  ) that run a particular color when dipped into the nutrient solution , ph drop test kit (   http://bit.ly/HCM30q   ), pH test pen such as the Oakton Ultra Basic (  http://bit.ly/INXTsq ) or a pH meter (   http://bit.ly/IHcHsv  ). The first option is very inexpensive and are great for those on a tight budget but the best and most accurate way is to use a well and often calibrated pH meter. A good digital pH pen such as the Oakton Ultra basic pen in the above link can be bought for under a $80 ,a  great investment, along with a good calibration solution to keep it accurate.

As we can see pH is very, very important but controlling it is a simple and relatively stress free procedure.

 

pH  METER CALIBRATION & CARE .

Prior to calibrating your meter it’s a good idea to place a small piece of foam, soaked in pH buffer 7.0, into the end of your pH meter probe cap. This will ensure that your probe remains suitably hydrated and will maintain its full life.

Calibration and care of your pH meter is vital if you are to get accurate readings. An incorrectly calibrated or poorly maintained pH meter can cause as many, if not more problems as using no meter at all! Calibrating and maintaining your pH meter is simple and takes virtually no time at all! For greatest accuracy calibrate your meter at least weekly using good quality calibration solutions and a 2 point calibration check. Calibration solutions for pH meters are called buffer Solutions. It is vitally important to use both pH buffer 4.0 and pH buffer 7.0 to ensure that you have the greatest meter accuracy and to ensure that your pH probe is not worn out.

To calibrate, first begin by decanting a small amount of pH buffer 7.0  into a small receptacle just big enough to immerse your pH meter probe into. Never dip your meter directly in the bottle of buffer solution or return any used buffer to the bottle. This avoids contamination and inaccurate readings. Now dip the probe of your pH meter into your small receptacle and calibrate to pH 7.0 according to your meters calibration directions. Next, rinse off your probe and receptacle in some clean water, shake the excess water and fill your small receptacle with pH buffer 4.0. Now dip the probe of your pH meter into the receptacle. Your meter should read within 0.2 pH points of 4.0 ( pH 3.8 to  pH 4.2 ). If your meter does this then congrats – you just calibrated your pH meter! If your meter reads either above or below the figures listed then we need to re perform the calibration sequence but in Reverse. To do this once again insert your probe into the pH 4.0 Buffer solution and perform your meters calibration sequence. We have now just calibrated the meter to pH 4.0. Now rinse your pH probe and the receptacle in some clean water and shake the excess off. Next, decant some pH buffer 7.0 into the receptacle and dip your pH probe into the receptacle and once again calibrate the meter ( this time to pH 7.0 ). Now rinse the probe and the receptacle again and recheck at pH 4.0. This time your meter should read within 0.2 pH points of 4. If it does not, then it means your pH probe has come to the end of its life and needs to be replaced. In most instances this means you will have to replace your meter if the probe is not detachable. 

Root Pouch fibre plant pots are now in stock

With spring time looming around the corner the need always comes up for the start of the outdoor growing season for a sturdy, durable high quality pot for outdoor use that is reusable and easy to transport.

Well now we have the answer! We have brought into our ever expanding line of products the Root Pouch plant pots reusable fabric container.

Image

There have been other fabric pots on the market in the past and people have often asked will a fabric pot tear or rip under pressure? The main reason fabric pots are so widely used is to create a better plant by providing a breathable healthy growing environment.

Fabric pots, unlike traditional black plastic pots, allow water and air to flow through its walls, nourishing the root structure of the plant. It also does not allow the plants roots to circle once they meet the resistance of the walls of the pot. Instead, through a couple of different means they cause the plant to send out new fibrous roots rather than circle and harm the plant.

Image

Root Pouch Company is the only Company that uses both recycled plastic fibers along with natural fibers. These natural fibers mixed into the netting of the fabric will retain moister more evenly around the pot. While allowing the fabric to breathe it is also now helping in cooling down the plant in summer as well as helping to warm the plant in winter, similar to a blanket surrounding the tender roots. Due to the natural fibers within the structure, the fabric will have different tinsel strengths depending on the density of the fabric. Regardless of the density the pots are guaranteed to always hold the weight that is required for that size of container.

Root Pouch breaks this cycle and encourages more sustainable gardening practices, with a lightweight, flexible, breathable plant pot made entirely from recycled materials. Root Pouch containers are made of a unique, fabric-like geotextile created from reclaimed plastic fibers and recycled natural materials

  

BENEFITS

    – Better than black plastic

    – Boosts plant growth and yields

    – Fabric allows roots to breath

    – Prevents roots from circling

    – Pots are washable and last for multiple seasons

    – Keeps plants warmer in winter & cooler in summer

    – Pot allows plant to be placed outside quicker

    – Saves up to a week off vegetative growth cycle

    – Can be used with drip systems, overheads & hydroponic flood trays

 

How to Use

 

Root Pouch plant pots can be used to grow plants of any size and type, and is also ideal for transporting plants because they are lightweight, durable and come equipped with carrying handles. Potted plants and trees will enjoy healthy growth while above-ground, and can also be planted directly in the ground, where the pot will degrade to allow the roots to take hold in the natural environment. The Root Pouch plant pot can be used successfully in many different climate and soil conditions, from desert sand to clay.

 Resource/ http://rootpouch.com/

www.canadianwholesalehydroponics.com is where you can find them.

We carry the Root Pouch plant pots in the following sizes:

 

1 gallon Root Pouch       $1.60 each / 25 per case or  $35.00 per case

 2 gallon Root Pouch        $2.00 each / 25 per case or $45.00 per case

 3 gallon Root Pouch        $2.50 each / 25 per case or $ 55.00 per case

 5 gallon Root Pouch        $3.60 each / 10 per case or $ 32.00 per case

 5 gallon with handle        $4.60 each / 10 per case or $41.00 per case

 7 gallon Root Pouch         $4.50 each 10 per case/ or $40 per case

7 gallon with handle         $5.50 each  10 per case or $ 50 per case

10 gallon with handle       $6.40 each

15 gallon with handle       $7.30 each

25 gallon with handle       $11.80 each

45 gallon with handle       $19.00 each

 

Give us a call anytime if you have any questions.  1-877-226-4769

BC Ballast Digital Ballasts are proving to be a very high Quality ballast.

In the hydroponics industry there are many digital ballast options available to growers. We brought in a few different brands so far and have been selling the BC Ballast digital ballast lineup for approximately 1 year. We have had nothing but satisfied customers and positive feedback on them and quite happy to have them in our product line up.

They BC Ballast Digital ballast comes with a 3 year solid warranty that offers the customer a NEW replacement if anything goes wrong with the original digital ballast purchased. Please read disclaimer from the BC Ballast website:

Warranty:

BC Ballast’s warranty does not apply to damages resulting from any action including but not limited to mishandling, improper interfacing, operation outside of design limits, improper repairs or unauthorized modifications. This warranty is void if the unit shows evidence of having been tampered with or damaged as a result of excessive corrosion/water damage, excessive current, heat, moisture or vibration; improper specification; misapplication; misuse or other operating conditions outside of BC Ballast’s control.

Disclaimer:

BC Ballast intends that this product is to be installed by a qualified electrician. BC Ballast intends that this product is to be used for plant lighting on lawful plant species. BC Ballast does not accept any liability of misuse of this product by the customer.

We have had no issues with the BC Ballast digital ballast lineup and have found them to be one of the most reliable digital ballasts of all the brands we have ever sold over the years. 

Heres some more info on the BC Ballast Digital ballasts.

600W & 1000W Digital Electronic Ballast

  • Operates a range of voltages for both MH and HPS lamps
  • Lamp detection technology ensures safe and proper lamp operation
  • Short circuit protection eliminates the need for fuses or reset buttons
  • Generator friendly and flip-board ready
  • Dimmable units run at 50, 75, and 100%
  • Gradual dimming function available to manually adjust lumen output and power consumption – ensures lamp performance and longevity
  • 1000W units require 9.0 Amps on 120V and 4.4 Amps on 240V
  • 600W units require 5.6 Amps on 120V and 2.8 Amps on 240V
  • Also available in 400W units!
  • All units operate efficiently on 120V, 240V and 208V
  • Higher lumen output than magnetic ballasts
  • Long range igniter equipped – Up to 75′
  • Completely sealed against dust and moisture
  • Built in high temperature shut off at 75ºC/167ºF
  • Completely silent, light-weight and energy-efficient
  • 3 year warranty!
  • *Shielded lamp-cords sold seperately

 

Replacing Lamps Frequently

We are often asked questions about replacing lamps for indoor gardens.  In this post we wanted touch down on that topic.

When growing indoors, spectrum and light intensity are very important.  The quality and quantity of light are one of the most important factors that can affect plant growth and yield.  Without adequate lighting or incorrect light spectrum, plants can suffer and yields will be reduced .

When walking into an indoor garden the human eye is often blinded by the brightness of the lights and can’t often notice a shift in spectrum or intensity diminished but the plants can and do.  Lamps that burn 12 hours a day for long periods of time will weaken in spectrum and intensity over time.  This happens in all HID lamps .  The chemical reaction within the arc tube will deteriorate over time and affect the output of the bulb.  Unfortunately lamps are not like our sun, they do need to be replaced.  Imagine growing under cloudy conditions, after awhile its bright enough for humans but plant growth will be become weak.

To maintain full growth, large flowers and abundant yields, lamps need to replaced on a regular schedule.  Burning a 1000 watt lamp that only puts out half the output it should is burning the full amount of electricity but only giving you half the results.

People always ask us how long should we keep our bulbs burning for?    Typically an High Pressure Sodium  lamp will last longer then a metal halide lamp.  HPS lamps are usually good for approx 10 months.  Metal Halide 6-8 months and its time to replace.  This is for Optimal growth.  Most growers use the HPS for no longer then 1 year and the MH no longer then 6 months.  For the price of a new lamp, the yield that is lost out weighs the cost in most cases.

The lamps usually have a monthly an annual calendar on the socket base theat you can scratch off the month and year you purchased so that way you can know how long the lamp has been running.  Its a quick and easy way to mark the lamp.  This way if you ever switch it out or mix it up you’ll always know how long it has been used.

 

General Organics Bio Thrive Series

We brought in the General Organics Bio Thrive series almost a year ago and have had nothing but rave reviews from our customers for this product line.  It has been the most simplest 1 part grow and 1 part bloom to use while achieving amazing results.  the taste of the finished product has been amazing and the yields have been phenomenal for an organic fertilizer.

For the price you simply cannot beat this combination and the supplements from General Organics are such high quality that this combination is unbeatable.

BioThrive Vegan plant formulas were designed to meet all the needs of plants through every stage of growth.  The formulations were based on ecological principles that maintain respect for the environment while providing balanced nutrition for plants. 

The ingredients in BioThrive are entirely Vegan.  They contain Sea kelp, mined minerals and natural plant extracts.

BioThrive actively improves the root environment by feeding the microbes that live in harmony with your plant. This will provide essential nutrition that creates a healthy vegetative , fruiting and flowering growth cycle.

Bio Thrive is ideal for all types of plants and can be used with the other products in the General Organics product line.  It can be used in all types of mediums aswell such as coco, soil, soiless etc..

BioThrive Grow is formulated to maximize vegetative growth by supplying plants with a custom diet that stimulates vigorous root and foliage developement.  Through proper nutrition BioThrive creates a strong frame for later flower and fruit production.  BioThrive works with all types of plants to give them a strong, healthy start.

Here is a link to where you can buy BioThrive from our website :

http://www.canadianwholesalehydroponics.com/products.cfm?p_id=2189&show_details=1&catpage=1

BioThrive Bloom provides flowering and fruiting plants with essential nutrients, perfectly balanced for superior blooms and bountiful harvests.  BioThrive has been specially designed to maximize flower, seed and fruit production.  The unique formulation of BioThrive will give you larger, more nutricous and delicious yields.  BioThrive benefits all kinds of plants during the fruiting and flowering stages of growth.

here is a link to where you can buy BioThrive from our website :

http://www.canadianwholesalehydroponics.com/products.cfm?p_id=2188&show_details=1&catpage=1

Vortex XL Fans by Atmosphere have arrived

We have brought in the new V series Vortex fans by Atmosphere.

These fans are really a game changer when it comes to moving large volumes of air.  With the new mixed flow impellar design these fans will move larger volumes of air more efficiently then any of their competitors.

  • The V series fans are made of superior steel construction.
  •  They come with a 120 Volt power cord so there is no wiring for you, just plug and play.  
  • The finish is a hammertone powder coat finish which is the highest quality finish on any fan on the market today. 
  • They have a true mixed flow impellar technology. 
  • Permanantly lubricated maintenance free ball bearing motor
  • Galvanized mounting brackets for operating in horizontal or vertical position
  • Quiet and vibration free operation
  • Exteneded collar and lip
  • Optional speed control available aswell

And with The Vortex Fans unsurpassed quality you never need to worry about your fan going down. But in the unlikely event of that happening they are backed by a 3 year manufacturers warranty. But to take it one step further, Canadian Wholesale Hydroponics offers a replacement program where if your fan does go down we send a brand new one out so you don’t have to wait for service, we deal with the service and you get a brand new fan.  We know our customer’s equipment is very important and we know any down time is not good so we eliminate that for you and get you back up and running in no time.

We have 3 models to choose from :

  • V-12 XL       2050 CFM   at   540 watts / 4.8 amps     38.2 lbs        $865.00
  • v-14 XL       2905 CFM    at   860 watts /  7.5 amps    43.6 lbs    $1399.00
  • V-16 XL      4515 CFM    at 1550 watts  / 13.2 amps   65.6 lbs    $2289.00

You can see them all at http://www.canadianwholesalehydroponics.com/products.cfm?cat_id=91&show_products=1&catpage=2